In other words, light can be added but not subtracted the film can be made lighter but not darker.” 2 Simply put, you start with black, 100% emulsion on the film, and can lighten areas to 100% exposed film or no emulsion left on the film, which creates an apparent clear area on the film. The text continues, “as more and more light, or exposure is allowed to strike various parts of the film, the silver content of the emulsion becomes progressively less, upon printing, in those areas where more light is added, and consequently, the print becomes progressively lighter.
The unexposed film, when printed, produces a completely black print.” 1 So, if the film is unexposed, it creates a black print, then fully exposed film creates an evident clear frame if light or a white card is photographed. The LAYOUT MANUAL starts with a fundamental explanation of photographic exposure, which is “the process of lightening an area of dark film. The art of this, aside from the actual artwork, is the creativity in coming up with the right combination of operations to create the desired effect on the film. These operations can involve a simple double-exposure in which the film is exposed twice, usually creating a transparency effect for one element, or it can include many exposures on the same piece of film using different filters. I can tell you from personal experience that one of the more fun aspects of creating visual effects animation, outside of actually animating, is enhancing that animation using camera operations.
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